Having stayed just out of Mataranka, we were only a stones throw from the famous Katherine Gorge! Once in the town of Katherine, we organised for the whooping cough vaccination as it was needed for the next big stint in our journey. We then decided to browse through the Art + Culture Gallery in hope for some brilliant Aboriginal art. Unfortunately there was minimal and instead, there was a series of ‘creative’ displays on.
We escaped from the heat that afternoon at Katherine Springs. Similar to Mataranka, there were minimal people around as it was now the wet season and we were able to relax in the warm waters. There was even a small flowing waterfall to add to the serenity. We could have stayed there forever but instead thought it better to find camp. Finding a cheap $10/pp camp out of town at North Bank Park, we were greeted by a very accommodating bloke and would highly recommend this hide-away in the Katherine area.
We woke with excitement the next day to see what Katherine Gorge had in store for us. When we came through the gates into Nitmiluk National Park, we were slightly disappointed on our arrival. On numerous signs on the way in, we read the Gorge was closed for swimming due to the recent rainfall and increased chance of saltwater crocs. As a result, we had to take the tough option of lounging around the pool for the arvo.
The staff at the tourist information had recommended a short 1km walk (with a couple of beers) to the Baruwei Lookout for sunset. Listening to her advice we packed the backpack with the essentials. By the time we arrived at the top we were buggered by the steep hill climb. Luckily for us, the view was breathtaking and well worth it. A group of backpackers also had the same idea and as we began chatting, we quickly discovered they had come from the W.A coast. Many laughs were had in the exchange of stories from all of our adventures, as the sun slowly set over the Katherine River. The full moon had also made an appearance at the same time as we returned to camp.
Up at 5:30am to beat the heat, we decided on a walk to explore the Gorge as we couldn’t swim. As the weather was averaging 39 degrees we wanted to be back by the pool early. Hiking along the southern walks track we made it to two stunning lookouts, Pat’s Lookout and Jedda’s Rock. These were outstanding views of gorges 1 & 2, only hitting the sides of a total 13! Having some smoko at Jedda’s Rock Lookout as the sun was beating down on the river, we spotted the morning cruise returning from its adventure!
On the return trip we visited the Southern Rockhole. This was still prohibited to swimmers due to a high risk of crocs but it was still a tranquil place to cool down and have a rest. Back in the searing heat on the trail we couldn’t drink fast enough as the sweat dripped off our faces. We had been 3 hrs and 43 mins, trekking for 12.2kms. Nay even powered through the end as a gnarly blister was causing her serious grief! Lucky we could retire to the pool and recover from the big morning.
We’ll be back to see Katherine Gorge in her entirety at full force, as we plan to return for a scenic chopper ride and experience her beauty during the wet season.
Back on the Stuart Hwy was the only way from Katherine to visit Edith Falls (Northern Nitmiluk NP) where the waterholes were open to swim! Once again, dripping with sweat, we took the 2.6km loop to the upper falls. It was a fantastic refreshing swim when we jumped in, trying to avoid the blistering hot rocks. With minimal shade around we didn’t hang for long and hiked back to the lower pools. We spent over an hour snorkelling around, swimming 150m to the waterfall and to our suprise, saw a barramundi in the shallows! With a solid day like this, we could only reward ourselves with wood fired pizzas in the camp oven that night!
Having a rough sleep due to the heat and woken several times by an unbelievable thunderstorm, we were up at 5:00am for another walk. It sounds crazy but we hoped for an amazing reward! Smashing through the first 4.6kms the weariness subsided and we arrived at a brilliant private swimming hole, Sweetwater Pools. Being so early and remote, Mark may or may not have been one with nature before the 4.6km return walk for some lunch!
After exhausting the Nitmiluk NP waterholes, we were back on the Stuart Highway. A quick stop at Hayes Creek lead us to the Butterfly Gap, compliments of WikiCamps . Following the directions on the app we were suprised to find hundreds of butterflies fluttering around us in the secluded ‘cave’ system. Arriving at a free camp at Robin Falls we had our own little swimming hole. Relaxing in the waters we were stunned when we thought a snake was only 3m away from us, luckily it was just a goanna! Only a week prior we had learnt that the little buggers could swim!
Feasting on leftover pizza, we chatted about our next destination and what it had to offer. We had heard numerous opinions, seen many brochures and known it was a very famous location in the northern NT. We were thrilled to be heading to Litchfield National Park…
13/10/2016 – 19/10/2016