Category Archives: Northern NT

Northern NT

Through The Forest Of Litchfield

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We only had a short 45 mins before finding ourselves crossing over into Litchfield National Park.  It was interesting that leading up to our arrival we hadn’t come across too many brochures of the NP but Nay had rummaged around to gather what we could.  The first small stop in the park was at the Termite Mounds.  Having seen so many grand variations of these on our journey up the Cape we were still impressed by the size Litchfield had to offer.  Even the crazy thin magnetic termite mounds were again a sight to see.

Needing to escape the arvo heat, we went looking for one of the many waterfalls ahead of us.  The tourist Parks must complete all their maintenance work just out of the dry season before the real wet season hits.  As a result, one of the two major attractions, Florence Falls, was closed but the look out was still spectacular.  Only a short 5 minute drive around the corner was endless entertainment at Buley Rockhole.  The car park was chock-a-block with tourists and we quickly discovered why.  A long series of waterfalls flowing into deep plunge pools allowed everyone to spread out and relax in their own space.  We still managed to find all the spots to take selfie bombies! 

We set up base camp at Wangi Falls (the most popular site) as the maintenance at Florence hadn’t given us many options.  We couldn’t complain as in the mornings, we had the most impressive ‘bath’ to wake us up.  Opening up from the bush, Wangi was a vast swimming hole with two cascading falls enclosed by lush vegetation.  We knew why this was popular but to our luck (until a school bus rolled up just as we left) there was never more than a handful of people swimming! 

We swam around to explore both waterfalls and found a deep little plunge pool 10m up the waterfall cliff.  A small climb gave us amazing views looking back from the falls – if only glass bottles were allowed!  We spent a lot of time floating around the base of the falls which to us, really put them into perspective, imagining what they would be like as Litchfield flooded in the wet.

One of the nights spent at Wangi Camp we enjoyed a fire with a few backpackers around the area.  The Dutch bloke that organised it explained to us how he was hitch-hiking around Australia – what an adventurous fella!

Once leaving Wangi, we backtracked a little through the park for some sightseeing.  With no access for swimmers, the Tabletop Swamp and Tolmer Falls were still great spots for lunch.  Fortunately for us we could escape from the main drag and went further south down a 4×4 track to Tjaynera (Sandy) Falls.  Along this path was the Blyth Homestead which was definitely worth visiting.  A couple of small 400mm deep river crossings (nothing like the Cape!) we came to the quaint homestead which seemed to be built for midgets as we had to duck as roof was so low!

There was a small display of old assorted tools and a ‘Family Album’ that was very well presented.  Reading through the book we learnt that the husband and wife had a total of 14 children!  The extracts through the album explained their hardships of growing up so remote and how they quickly improvised out in the bush.  One of the boys also had an entry that explained how he had a pet freshwater croc!  As it was hard to muster cattle in the wet, they also owned a Tin Mine a stones throw away to keep a steady income.  With an ore sample near the site, it was interesting how heavy a small clump of it could be!

When we arrived at the Tjaynera Falls camp ground, there was a 3.4km return walk to the swimming hole.  As soon as we left for the walk, the sun magically disappeared and it started bucketing down!  This didn’t ruin the experience but just kept us a little cooler.  The falls at the end were very rewarding with us both agreeing that it would have been one of the better spots at Litchfield.  The only downfall was that the population of march flies seemed to have quadrupled.  They were monstrous falls with sheer cliffs hugging the pools edges, Mark looked so tiny in the big picture. 

We crawled out from the 4×4 trail to enjoy a morning stroll to Tjaeteba Falls.  Litchfield was a gift that kept on giving.  Just as we rolled up a couple was leaving and we had the entire place to ourselves.  There were different levels with waterfalls of various sizes.  It started off with a small trickle through a paperback tree root system to a lower pool that flowed off to a sizeable waterfall.  In the larger pool we were shocked to see a goanna dive in the water with us!  We quickly shot out and went to another pool where he ended up following us!  He then put on a spectacular show for us as we watched him swim in the shallows chasing fish. 

The floating from waterhole to waterfall had come to its end as we took the northern road to Darwin.  We dropped into the Cascades and Walker Creek on the way out to have lunch and Nay nearly stepped on a snake while wading in the shallows!  A bit disappointed by National Parks for having no rubbish bins, we had to carry our rubbish with us for the better part of 5 days.   On the menu over this period included tuna, chicken, steaks and mouldy pumpkin.  You could imagine what the bin was smelling like!

On the way to Darwin we went to Berry Springs which was said to be a great place for swimming.  Upon arriving, the waterhole was closed because our croc mates had made a recent appearance.  Continuing along, it wasn’t long before making it to Darwin!  It is such a small capital compared to the others along the east coast.  We had planned our arrival for the Sunday arvo where we just made it to the famous Mindil Markets, the second last before they closed for the wet season.  This was a great evening watching entertainment, browsing the stalls and of course, watching the sunset as everyone gathered around – some even applauded once it slipped past the horizon!

The next days were spent around Darwin fixing up a few minor mishaps from past adventures and gathering everything together for the next two weeks.  Being budget smart, we found ourselves on the awfully cheap 1:40am red eye flight to Melbourne!  We’re going home to catch up with family and friends.  It will be interesting to see how we fare in the cold 18-20 degree max temperatures that Melbourne has to offer…

19/10/2016 – 27/10/2016

Northern NT

A Well Known Gorge And Her Relaxing Surrounds

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Having stayed just out of Mataranka, we were only a stones throw from the famous Katherine Gorge!  Once in the town of Katherine, we organised for the whooping cough vaccination as it was needed for the next big stint in our journey.  We then decided to browse through the Art + Culture Gallery in hope for some brilliant Aboriginal art.  Unfortunately there was minimal and instead, there was a series of ‘creative’ displays on.

We escaped from the heat that afternoon at Katherine Springs.  Similar to Mataranka, there were minimal people around as it was now the wet season and we were able to relax in the warm waters.  There was even a small flowing waterfall to add to the serenity.  We could have stayed there forever but instead thought it better to find camp.  Finding a cheap $10/pp camp out of town at North Bank Park, we were greeted by a very accommodating bloke and would highly recommend this hide-away in the Katherine area. 

We woke with excitement the next day to see what Katherine Gorge had in store for us.  When we came through the gates into Nitmiluk National Park, we were slightly disappointed on our arrival.  On numerous signs on the way in, we read the Gorge was closed for swimming due to the recent rainfall and increased chance of saltwater crocs.  As a result, we had to take the tough option of lounging around the pool for the arvo.

The staff at the tourist information had recommended a short 1km walk (with a couple of beers) to the Baruwei Lookout for sunset.  Listening to her advice we packed the backpack with the essentials.  By the time we arrived at the top we were buggered by the steep hill climb.  Luckily for us, the view was breathtaking and well worth it.  A group of backpackers also had the same idea and as we began chatting, we quickly discovered they had come from the W.A coast.  Many laughs were had in the exchange of stories from all of our adventures, as the sun slowly set over the Katherine River.  The full moon had also made an appearance at the same time as we returned to camp. 

Up at 5:30am to beat the heat, we decided on a walk to explore the Gorge as we couldn’t swim.  As the weather was averaging 39 degrees we wanted to be back by the pool early.  Hiking along the southern walks track we made it to two stunning lookouts, Pat’s Lookout and Jedda’s Rock.  These were outstanding views of gorges 1 & 2, only hitting the sides of a total 13!  Having some smoko at Jedda’s Rock Lookout as the sun was beating down on the river, we spotted the morning cruise returning from its adventure!

On the return trip we visited the Southern Rockhole.  This was still prohibited to swimmers due to a high risk of crocs but it was still a tranquil place to cool down and have a rest.  Back in the searing heat on the trail we couldn’t drink fast enough as the sweat dripped off our faces.  We had been 3 hrs and 43 mins, trekking for 12.2kms.  Nay even powered through the end as a gnarly blister was causing her serious grief!  Lucky we could retire to the pool and recover from the big morning.

We’ll be back to see Katherine Gorge in her entirety at full force, as we plan to return for a scenic chopper ride and experience her beauty during the wet season.

Back on the Stuart Hwy was the only way from Katherine to visit Edith Falls (Northern Nitmiluk NP) where the waterholes were open to swim!  Once again, dripping with sweat, we took the 2.6km loop to the upper falls.  It was a fantastic refreshing swim when we jumped in, trying to avoid the blistering hot rocks.  With minimal shade around we didn’t hang for long and hiked back to the lower pools.  We spent over an hour snorkelling around, swimming 150m to the waterfall and to our suprise, saw a barramundi in the shallows!  With a solid day like this, we could only reward ourselves with wood fired pizzas in the camp oven that night!

Having a rough sleep due to the heat and woken several times by an unbelievable thunderstorm, we were up at 5:00am for another walk.  It sounds crazy but we hoped for an amazing reward!  Smashing through the first 4.6kms the weariness subsided and we arrived at a brilliant private swimming hole, Sweetwater Pools.  Being so early and remote, Mark may or may not have been one with nature before the 4.6km return walk for some lunch!

After exhausting the Nitmiluk NP waterholes, we were back on the Stuart Highway.  A quick stop at Hayes Creek lead us to the Butterfly Gap, compliments of WikiCamps .  Following the directions on the app we were suprised to find hundreds of butterflies fluttering around us in the secluded ‘cave’ system.  Arriving at a free camp at Robin Falls we had our own little swimming hole.  Relaxing in the waters we were stunned when we thought a snake was only 3m away from us, luckily it was just a goanna!  Only a week prior we had learnt that the little buggers could swim!

Feasting on leftover pizza, we chatted about our next destination and what it had to offer.  We had heard numerous opinions, seen many brochures and known it was a very famous location in the northern NT.  We were thrilled to be heading to Litchfield National Park…

13/10/2016 – 19/10/2016

Northern NT

Heading Out Of The Gulf & Into The Territory!

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The next stop on the list was the old gold mining town of Croydon – not at all similar to the one in Victoria!  The information here was in abundance.  We visited the Old Chinese Temple Site in North Croydon which was Chinatown.  The Chinese excelled in mining during the gold rush of the north.  Being the racists the white settlers were, they didn’t allow the Chinese to work in a mine that was less than 3 years old!  This didn’t stop them walking 1,800kms (as other means of transport was too expensive) from Darwin and another great hike after leaving the Palmerston Gold Rush (Cape York).  Most became established bakers or fruit and vegetable growers and excelled in their trade.

Back on the main street we explored the Heritage Precinct consisting of old refurbished buildings from the mining days.  It was extremely well presented and we learnt a lot about the police station, town hall and courthouse.  A light and sound display of a trial back in 1903 was a highlight.  A lady was sentenced to 2 months jail for swearing in public, where the next case also recieved a 2 month sentence for drug trafficking – crazy times!  One last stop at the oldest store in Australia which was established in 1891 gave us an insight of how they roughed it in the bush.  Funnily enough, from the photos around the store we weren’t sure if they were taken yesterday or back in 1891.  The store still had its original shelves, benches and memorabilia.  Exhausted by the heat and history overload we retired at Normanton as we said ‘Hi’ to Krys the croc (a life size replica of the largest ever captured croc) on the way to the river.  It was hard to believe that a beast of 8.63m existed in our Age.   After marvelling for a while, we tucked ourselves into a magical spot by the river and had the camp all to ourselves!

 The next day we were slightly disappointed to be told that the Barra season had finished 2 days prior to our arrival at the fishing Mecca – Karumba!  To lighten the mood we spoilt ourselves with some fresh prawns caught that morning.  They were delicious!  That arvo Mark tried his luck in catching something decent but only managed to pull in a couple of small ones.  He was still having a blast.  

Having the sun set over the ocean at Karumba Point, only meant one thing… beers at the perfectly positioned beer garden that overlooked the ocean.  This pub really utilised it’s surroundings.  While returning to camp we were suprised to see the uncountable number of hermit crabs on our NMBWE (Nocturnal Marine Biology Wildlife Excursion).  There would of been hundreds of the little buggers, some even too big to hide back in their shells!  Shooting back out for a night fish Mark wasn’t very successful again and had his line snap from an unknown monster of the ocean.  It was still a great experience to fish under the stars while waves crashed against the shore.

Departing the following day, we sped through the hundreds of kms ahead of us.  We stopped by small points of interest along the way being Burketown (near here was Camp 119 – Burke and Will’s final camp), Doomadgee Roadhouse and Hell’s Gate Roadhouse which all had small glimpses of history .  Finding free camps wherever we could, it wasn’t long until we hit the NT border where Mark dug one last hole in QLD.

To enjoy some cool weather, we were up at 6:00am as we quickly discovered this was the coolest time of day, at 20 degrees.  It wasn’t long before 9:00am rolled around and it was already 30 degrees and rising!  Crossing through plenty of creek crossings to our next destination on the unsealed road, it was easy to see how this area could flood with rising water levels.

Just south of the small outback town of Borroloola, which back in the day was known as a ‘lawless town’ as it was so remote, we drove in to Caranbirini Reserve for the night.  Dodging the heat we were up early for the walk around The Lost City.  The city consisted of eroded sandstone formations which were made millions of years ago in shallow water, sand hardening layer upon layer.  They know this because when the rock is dissected horizontally (split) it has the same ripple effect as sand does in shallow water at the beach.  Over time water has eroded the sandstone down to create a ‘city’, where in some places it was quite a squeeze along the path.

Returning to the air-conditioned car to dodge the radiating heat, we smashed through the last 400kms to make it to Daly Waters.  This pub had character beyond belief.  It seemed anyone who wanted to could hand in a personal item to hang around the pub; their shirt, hat, undies, bra, thongs, anything!  Sadly since the dry season was over there wasn’t entertainment but we still enjoyed a date night and ate out.  


As we left Daly Waters we travelled along the historic trail that informed us this small establishment was actually the first International Airport!  Qantas flights would refuel, restock and grab a feed here before heading overseas.  This was carried out by the husband and wife at the homestead in the early 1940’s.

We were officially back on the main north-south artery in the NT.  Burning into Mataranka (home of the ‘Big Termite Mound‘) we visited the replica of the Elsey Homestead which was built for the movie based on the novel ‘We Of The Never, Never’.  Although the actual homestead has been demolished (due to roadworks) we were still able to visit the Elsey Cemetery which demonstrated the hardships they had the endure in the outback in the early 1900’s.  After the history lesson, it was time to relax in the thermal pools.  Being out of Grey Nomad season we were all alone except for the 200,000 bats that had migrated here for the months to come!  There was bat poop everywhere!

Still in the Elsey National Park we visited the Bitter Springs.  This was absolutely breathtaking.  It was the most natural 34 degree river that we’d ever seen as it had minimal impact from humans.  With a slow current we drifted in the crystal clear water along the stream until climbing out to walk back to the start.  The second time around we decided to grab our snorkels and an entirely new world appeared before us!  Sun glistening through the water lead to a picturesque sight, plus there was an added bonus of seeing at least 10 turtles!

As there were no free camps around Mataranka we decided to disappear further north as it was getting late.  We burnt away with a stunning sky displaying the colours of sunset.  We were fully refreshed after the visit to the springs as we found a perfect spot to call home that night.  Moments like this reminded us that it’s such a great feeling to be free on the open road…

08/10/2016 – 13/10/2016

Northern NT

Parting Ways To A Change Of Scenery

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Going on our own back on the road felt a little abnormal as we had spent the better part of 2 months with Stu.  Nevertheless, for the first time on our trip we went west.  Making some ground from Atherton we arrived at the Innot Hot Springs around 6pm.  After our big adventure up the Cape we quickly found that the Grey Nomad season was wrapping up and the Springs were deserted!

We quickly set up and had a feed, then retired to the warm therapeutic pools which were naturally heated from the local springs.  Each pool had a spa feature with temperatures varying from 23-25, 28 – 30, 32-24, 36-40, 41-45 degrees.  Having to try them all, we started in the cooler ones until reaching the unbearable 41-45 degrees, where we couldn’t even submerge an entire leg as it was that scolding!  We spent the following morning relaxing back in the spas until we dragged ourselves away to check out the local river and it’s springs.  To our suprise, the water here felt hotter than the warmest pool we’d just experienced!  Reading a sign we learnt that in 1991 the temperature in the river was 71 degrees with a flow of 3L/sec!

Once again the climate changed as we went from a cold Atherton to a much warmer and dry path along the Savannah Way.  Stopping at the 40 Mile Scrub National Park we stumbled into a dry rainforest.  Not knowing such a thing existed, we quickly discovered it still had all the characteristics of a standard rainforest (different levels of foilage and heavy rainfall during the wet) but during the dry most of the plants shed their leaves to save water in order to survive.

Burning through some more kilometres of straight never ending road, we made it to the eerie town of Einesly.  Going along the main drag we discovered there was a population of 15 people which included the publican and his mate who seemed to just play with remote control cars all day – what a life!  Entering the pub we checked out an award winning miniature doll house collection that his (publicans) father had crafted as a hobby.  Around the corner from the pub was Copperfield Gorge.  This was the definition of hot and dry.  Black, rugged rocks in an isolated environment surprisingly housing very welcoming water between its cliff edges.  Luckily for us we had an even better swimming hole in mind.  That evening we camped at Cobbold Gorge (100km west) where an infinity pool and cold beverages awaited us!

With not a soul around it felt a little strange to have the entire camping area to ourselves!  We booked on a tour the next day to see further into the Gorge (as it is on private property).  To our amazement, there was only 7 of us out of a possible 42.  We were taken by an interesting guide who at times seemed to be on auto pilot but still had a great repertoire of information.   The cattle property had been split between 5 siblings and the youngest son inherited the section containing the Gorge.  He didn’t come to realisation of what he owned until he was in his late 20’s during a camping trip with some mates.  The guide then introduced us to many native trees and how they were used by the Aboriginals.  Ones that spiked our interest in particular were; a tree used for soap, as well as asphyxiating fish as a hunting tool, another in which you smoulder the leaves as an insect repellent and one that if you inhale it’s fumes from a fire, you will feel like you have the flu for 2 weeks!

After a trek around the top of the Gorge we went down to a jetty where an electric motor boat (being a Nature Reserve) awaited us for a 400m cruise.  It was spectacular to go along between the narrow sandstone walls and be able to feel the smooth surfaces of where torrents of water would gush during the wet.  Our guide explained how they have the use a pulley system to remove the jetty and boats during the off season as the water level can rise 8m when the Gorge floods!  Seeing a few small fish along the way and a baby freshwater croc, we were disappointed to miss Claude (the big 3.5m croc) who was said to be patrolling under the surface.  The Gorge was a stunning slice of paradise and worth visiting even if it was just for the infinity pool with its swim up bar!  

Returning to the laborious straight highway hugged by savannah bushland, we went through the small establishment of Georgetown.  If we blinked, we would have missed it as we continued 20kms west to The Cumberland Chimney.  Being able to camp near a dam here, Nay was craving roti bread with her famous peanut sauce.  We quickly googled a recipe and before we knew it we were relaxing by a fire demolishing the home made bread.

The next morning we learnt how the gold rush around the area had a huge impact on the neighbouring small towns.  Only the Chimney remained from this township but you could see how they flourished for the 30-40 year period until the gold was depleted and the town was abandoned.  Having a suss of the birdlife at the dam we found there were free binoculars!  We honed in on all varieties of birds from far away and were amazed at what we could see – maybe we needed to buy a pair of our own. 

Back in the car, looking at the map, we had only just started our long journey along the dry Savannah Way.  We wondered what other small pockets of history we could discover…

05/10/2016 – 08/10/2016