The next stop on the list was the old gold mining town of Croydon – not at all similar to the one in Victoria! The information here was in abundance. We visited the Old Chinese Temple Site in North Croydon which was Chinatown. The Chinese excelled in mining during the gold rush of the north. Being the racists the white settlers were, they didn’t allow the Chinese to work in a mine that was less than 3 years old! This didn’t stop them walking 1,800kms (as other means of transport was too expensive) from Darwin and another great hike after leaving the Palmerston Gold Rush (Cape York). Most became established bakers or fruit and vegetable growers and excelled in their trade.
Back on the main street we explored the Heritage Precinct consisting of old refurbished buildings from the mining days. It was extremely well presented and we learnt a lot about the police station, town hall and courthouse. A light and sound display of a trial back in 1903 was a highlight. A lady was sentenced to 2 months jail for swearing in public, where the next case also recieved a 2 month sentence for drug trafficking – crazy times! One last stop at the oldest store in Australia which was established in 1891 gave us an insight of how they roughed it in the bush. Funnily enough, from the photos around the store we weren’t sure if they were taken yesterday or back in 1891. The store still had its original shelves, benches and memorabilia. Exhausted by the heat and history overload we retired at Normanton as we said ‘Hi’ to Krys the croc (a life size replica of the largest ever captured croc) on the way to the river. It was hard to believe that a beast of 8.63m existed in our Age. After marvelling for a while, we tucked ourselves into a magical spot by the river and had the camp all to ourselves!
The next day we were slightly disappointed to be told that the Barra season had finished 2 days prior to our arrival at the fishing Mecca – Karumba! To lighten the mood we spoilt ourselves with some fresh prawns caught that morning. They were delicious! That arvo Mark tried his luck in catching something decent but only managed to pull in a couple of small ones. He was still having a blast.
Having the sun set over the ocean at Karumba Point, only meant one thing… beers at the perfectly positioned beer garden that overlooked the ocean. This pub really utilised it’s surroundings. While returning to camp we were suprised to see the uncountable number of hermit crabs on our NMBWE (Nocturnal Marine Biology Wildlife Excursion). There would of been hundreds of the little buggers, some even too big to hide back in their shells! Shooting back out for a night fish Mark wasn’t very successful again and had his line snap from an unknown monster of the ocean. It was still a great experience to fish under the stars while waves crashed against the shore.
Departing the following day, we sped through the hundreds of kms ahead of us. We stopped by small points of interest along the way being Burketown (near here was Camp 119 – Burke and Will’s final camp), Doomadgee Roadhouse and Hell’s Gate Roadhouse which all had small glimpses of history . Finding free camps wherever we could, it wasn’t long until we hit the NT border where Mark dug one last hole in QLD.
To enjoy some cool weather, we were up at 6:00am as we quickly discovered this was the coolest time of day, at 20 degrees. It wasn’t long before 9:00am rolled around and it was already 30 degrees and rising! Crossing through plenty of creek crossings to our next destination on the unsealed road, it was easy to see how this area could flood with rising water levels.
Just south of the small outback town of Borroloola, which back in the day was known as a ‘lawless town’ as it was so remote, we drove in to Caranbirini Reserve for the night. Dodging the heat we were up early for the walk around The Lost City. The city consisted of eroded sandstone formations which were made millions of years ago in shallow water, sand hardening layer upon layer. They know this because when the rock is dissected horizontally (split) it has the same ripple effect as sand does in shallow water at the beach. Over time water has eroded the sandstone down to create a ‘city’, where in some places it was quite a squeeze along the path.
Returning to the air-conditioned car to dodge the radiating heat, we smashed through the last 400kms to make it to Daly Waters. This pub had character beyond belief. It seemed anyone who wanted to could hand in a personal item to hang around the pub; their shirt, hat, undies, bra, thongs, anything! Sadly since the dry season was over there wasn’t entertainment but we still enjoyed a date night and ate out.

As we left Daly Waters we travelled along the historic trail that informed us this small establishment was actually the first International Airport! Qantas flights would refuel, restock and grab a feed here before heading overseas. This was carried out by the husband and wife at the homestead in the early 1940’s.
We were officially back on the main north-south artery in the NT. Burning into Mataranka (home of the ‘Big Termite Mound‘) we visited the replica of the Elsey Homestead which was built for the movie based on the novel ‘We Of The Never, Never’. Although the actual homestead has been demolished (due to roadworks) we were still able to visit the Elsey Cemetery which demonstrated the hardships they had the endure in the outback in the early 1900’s. After the history lesson, it was time to relax in the thermal pools. Being out of Grey Nomad season we were all alone except for the 200,000 bats that had migrated here for the months to come! There was bat poop everywhere!
Still in the Elsey National Park we visited the Bitter Springs. This was absolutely breathtaking. It was the most natural 34 degree river that we’d ever seen as it had minimal impact from humans. With a slow current we drifted in the crystal clear water along the stream until climbing out to walk back to the start. The second time around we decided to grab our snorkels and an entirely new world appeared before us! Sun glistening through the water lead to a picturesque sight, plus there was an added bonus of seeing at least 10 turtles!
As there were no free camps around Mataranka we decided to disappear further north as it was getting late. We burnt away with a stunning sky displaying the colours of sunset. We were fully refreshed after the visit to the springs as we found a perfect spot to call home that night. Moments like this reminded us that it’s such a great feeling to be free on the open road…
08/10/2016 – 13/10/2016













